Bahn Mi - a first foray

I know, me miss "eats everything everywhere as much as possible" found herself at a loss when a budding restaurateur approached me a few weeks ago asking for some consulting on an asian style cafe menu.  After a little coaxing, I got some information of what type of menu she was looking for, as "asian" could mean anything from chinese stirfry to korean style kimchi.  My specialty is Japanese, and as much as I hate the idea of, and even the word, "fusion,"  it is pretty much here to stay.  Even my own Tatsu menu has some gringo-esque undertones...
So when said cafe owner mentioned vietnamese sandwiches, I suddenly felt at a loss.  I mean, I've heard of these wonders: layered meats with pate and some sort of greenery on a traditional sandwich roll, and read some great reviews of some places off of Clement in the City, but felt sort of  ashamed that I hadn't yet partaken of one,  being the self proclaimed eater that i am.    However,   since moving (way up) to Petaluma almost 2 years ago, my culinary experiences have taken a bit of a nose dive, often even giving way to late night snacks at Applebees.  Yes, Applebees (and only because the sidewalks roll up around her at 9pm).
Wanting to try a Bahn Mi from the City instead of busting my cherry on a potential lesser version from the only Vietnamese restaurant in town, I popped down there a few weeks ago to get a firsthand taste of this eponymous sando.
A chef friend suggested I try Saigon Sandwich on Larkin Street near Turk.  As I was en route to a catering gig and didn't want to risk the line, I called ahead.  That proved sort of ridiculous.  They asked me what kind and I said, "the most popular."  She gave me the Vietamese version of "do not understand" - and so because I had no idea what was on their menu, and was scrolling through yelp reviews while driving on Lombard to try to make a quick decision, I settled on the pork.  I wanted to make sure it had the pate, cuz' please understand, I have never ordered one of these buggahs and wanted to be sure to get the whole shebang.  Unfortunately though, my non-english speaking phone companion "computed"  my request as "no pate?" Then I said "yes, pate" and then another "discourse" ensued on mayonnaise vs. no mayonnaise.  I said "yes, mayonnaise" and she responded "no mayo?"...  By the time I got off the phone, I had no idea what the hell I would be getting but was okay with that.

I zipped up and around the block (because Larkin is one-way for most of Russian Hill) and as luck would have it, found rock star parking right out front.  Luck would also have it, because it was a little too late for lunch and a little too early for dinner, that there was no line.  In fact, upon entering the little shoe boxed sized place, I was quick to discover they hadn't even yet made my sandwich!  So much for planning ahead!(my friends would laugh at that one, as one of my nicknames is "planny janny").  And it didn't really matter, because the "fanci pork pate" sandwich took all of 30 seconds to toss together:  sweet braised pork slices au jus from a crock pot, a squirt bottle with pate and some mystery ingredient in it (because in my world, pate has never been liquid enough to come out of a squirt bottle) and then of course, the required mayonnaise.  Topped with some cilantro, some slightly spicy pickled carrots, slices of jalapeno and stuffed into a french style sandwich roll, my sando was done!  And at $3.50, apparently that stop at Wells Fargo off Union wasn't at all needed!

Wrapped up in a tight paper wrapper with a red rubber band to hold it all together, I was out of there and on my way for a quick last minute Christmas shopping jaunt in Japantown.

Eager to try this while it was still hot, that wrapping proved to be a pain in the ass to unwrap while driving (yes, I am one of those people) - but there were enough traffic signals to allow me to catch a few bites before I found parking in Japantown.  A word to the wise, not the best way to eat this, as the pate squishes out of the crunchy yet still soft roll.  It wasn't cut in half, so picking up the whole thing while shifting on hills in SF, without spilling the contents into my lap or crashing into the car in front of me was a bit of a challenge.  The pork was sweet and soft, the carrots sweet, spicy and vinegary.  The jalapeno just hot enough to offset the sweetness and the cilantro added the extra dimension that only cilantro has the knack of doing.  I would have hoped the pate was a bit more prevalent, and somehow I imagined a slaw instead of just carrots and a few pieces of pickled cabbage, more meat etc, but that is probably the American in me.  The photo makes it look a bit more opulent than it was.  All in all however,  a sandwich I would try again.  Stay tuned, as I will be trying my local Petaluma version this week.

Merry Christmas 2011

Yes, off the radar is putting it mildly.  Having a midlife crisis, perhaps? I just logged in to look up my own recipe for popovers for today's Christmas dinner and wondered, what happened to me this year?  Where is this side of myself, the writer inside of me that I love to indulge while at the same time hopefully entertaining all of you readers?
I started a small Japanese style catering business this year.  I say "small" because it is still in its infantile stages.  Starting a business, as exciting as it sounds, has taken all of my creative juices right out of me.  Needing 175% of my attention but somehow not captivating me fully, it has been a struggle between maintaining balance in my life (exercise, free time, a man) and feeling guilty that I'm not 100% captivated.  Why aren't I?  There is something missing.  So I thought if I shared with my readers my plight, activating my creative juices through writing and other means, that the missing piece just may present itself to me.
Here is a link to my website www.tatsujapanesefood.com.

In the meantime, Prime Rib is on the menu for today.  A bunch of friends are coming over for a delicious dinner and to enjoy some rare bottles of wine that I've been waiting to open. On the left is 1999 Araujo Eisele Estate Cabernet Sauvignon; next to that is 1999 Opus One Napa Valley Cabernet.  Two great wines, the same vintage, good friends, a big hunk of meat.  What more could one ask for?? (ok, don't get me started on that one)
That Araujo has been carefully stored since I left the GM position at Picco about 6 years ago.  One of my best customers brought it in for my last night.  I humbly asked him if i might bring that one home to add to my collection instead of opening it and of course he obliged.  The Opus One, my friend Marcelo found in a "throw away" box at a winery where he works.  The Araujo started off really inky and then opened to a lovely black currant, earthy, dark fruit, great acidity, not too hit-you-over-the-head cabernet.  The Opus was smooth from the get go and opened to a full gigantic fruit explosion in the mouth.  Some found it slightly on the "sweet" side - all that ripe fruit just waiting to be exposed to the elements after 12 years.  Overall, I was quite pleased we opened them with this small group - believe it or not, none of us was left wanting.

That's me, carving the 10 pound Niman Ranch roast.  It took almost 3 hours to cook in my somewhat retarded (but working) electric Frigidaire Custom Imperial oven circa 1965.  Built to last, that behemoth did me right.

Our group was gracious at all the delicious wines, lots of Schramsburg Blanc de Blanc to get us going, 3 different desserts from Emporio Rulli in Larkspur, and one of Erin's famous Icebox Cakes, recipe straight from Magnolia Bakery in Manhattan.

There's Marcelo with his proverbial harem.  Seriously, those Brazilians - love their meat and their ladies!

So for now, I must go clean the damn kitchen, as well as the cobwebs from my writing.  Thanks for  participating in helping me get back to my groove!

Munch Mondays Santa Rosa - Alive and Finger Licking!

Dim Sum Charlie's Airstream swamped with hungry Santa Rosans

I set the alarm on my phone to remind me to cruise up to Santa Rosa to check out Munch Monday, a first ever lunchtime grouping of gourmet food trucks congregating on E Street between 2nd and 3rd.  Jillian Dorman, owner of the popular Santa Rosa based Street Eatz, worked her charm with Santa Rosa officials and managed to wrestle an end of the parking lot between the Post Office and Public Library every Monday between 11:30 and 2:00 pm for 5 trucks to park and sell their delicious treats to hungry Sonoma County office workers and food freaks (me being the latter).  Not to mention, it was a nice break for the local business folk tired of the same ol', same ol' on Fourth Street.  Thankfully it was sunny, as thermometers barely broke 50 degrees all day.

Fork Catering (from Sebastopol), Dim Sum Charlies (hailing all the way from Napa) and Santa Rosa's own Street Eatz, La Texanita and Chicago Hot Dogs were there with lines 20 deep at times.  By all accounts, the vendors were all a little surprised by the large turnout which resulted in a some waits, but not that bad considering it was a great time to catch up with co-workers, make new friends and just sort of hang out.



"10 Dolla Make You Holla" from Dim Sum Charlie's

 I felt like a kid in a candy store with so many choices and my stomach churning with hunger.  I decided on Dim Sum Charlie's as the line was going pretty fast and these guys are my friends, as I've worked a few events along side them in my friend Mark Raymond's truck, Mark's the Spot, a popular Napa based slider truck that also serves the best Hoisen glazed Duck Wings this side of, um, this side of, well okay, the Mississippi!
Anyhoo, most people were getting the "10 dolla make you holla" sampling of Dim Sum goodness, but I chose the "trio" of seafood (lobster, shrimp and scallop) and something called a "pork noodle snotty goodness" (don't quote me).  It was easily the most appetizing and least appetizing sounding thing at the same time if that makes any sense.  I wasn't afraid though.  The snotty goodness was a noodle pancake stuffed with barbeque pork and green onions.  Delish!  The seafood trio were also incredible with the crunch from the shrimp providing satisfying texture to compliment the hot mustard, chili, soy sauce concoction I dreamed up.  After scarfing both delicious selections down in a matter of moments, I contemplated getting back in line.

Agedashi Tofu

Instead, I decided to spread the wealth and ordered an Agedashi Tofu from Street Eatz. 

With the tagline"flavors of the world", Street Eatz was dishing up diverse offerings such as Cuban Style Pulled Pork sandwiches, Coconut Seafood Curry, Pork Tacos and Cajun Style Chicken Pasta.  As I waited for my Agedashi Tofu, fried cubes of lightly breaded tofu topped with grated ginger, bonito flakes, green onion and dashi broth, I gazed around at the crowd, and made mental note of the best sounding stuff from the other trucks for future Monday munching sessions:  Fork Catering's burgers sounded incredible, and they even offered a local crab sandwich; La Texanita's carne asada tacos, how could one go wrong; and even the Chicago Hot Dog sounded damn good, as everyone needs a good Vienna dog every once in a while, and with tomatoes to make it officially Chicagoan... 



Fork Catering's Menu



As I munched on my Agedashi, I was lucky enough to chat up a fellow local blogger who writes about everything Bento, how incredible was that?   Here is a link to Michelle's cool blog: http://www.sonomabento.blogspot.com/.   I hope to see Michelle again (and some of you) next Monday.  If Mondays don't work for you, consider cruising over to Napa for "First Friday," another congregation of many of the same trucks that happens on the first Friday night of every month.  The kicker, it's on private property so you can bring your own libations and eat and drink your way through the lively crowd.  Check it out at 1st and Soscol, near the Oxbow Market. 

Popovers - a new love

As dorky as it sounds to be "in love" with a baked good, ever since making popovers to go with our Christmas Prime Rib, I can't get those damn things out of my head.

This morning as I sipped on my morning tea, my stomach started rumbling,  It suddenly occurred to me that I had dreamed about popovers ALL NIGHT.  The main "message"  was that I had forgotten to add the egg.  Sort of retarded if you ask me considering they only have 4 ingredients:  Flour, Salt, Milk and  Egg(sorry about the political incorrectness of my self-deprication...).   My "dream" creations didn't "pop" over, nor did they puff or any of those wondrous things that happen right before our eyes through the oven door at 450 degrees.

Needless to say, I had to set things right.  Here's a very simple recipe that can be divided in half for smaller batches.    I usually do 1/2 recipe for 6.  Yes, I can eat them all in one sitting, which isn't that bad considering there isn't a lot of fat added... At what point have I ever cared about that?  Um, never, as my cell walls need an "oil change" occasionally.  If you use organic butter, it is the best, as all those pesky pesticides and other annoying fat soluble toxins aren't present, just pure deliciousness.  However, if you have some chicken fat, or beef fat (from aforementioned prime rib roasting) use that, as it will only add flavor.  Of course, using non-vegetarian fat means you probably want to eat these suckers with something savory (i.e. Prime Rib), which would then be pretty much "Yorkshire pudding" (yes, it is the same exact recipe, just cooks a little longer because of surface area etc)...

Makes 12 popovers:

6 tsp unsalted butter
1/2 cup milk
2 eggs
1/2 cup flour
2/3 - 3/4 tsp salt

Whisk or blend milk and eggs together until frothy.  Sift together flour and salt.  Whisk flour mixture into egg mixture, avoiding the tendency to overmix.  The batter will be thin like pancake batter.  Put into refrigerator for 20 minutes or until ready to use.

Heat oven to 450 F.  Add 1/2 tsp fat/butter to bottom of muffin tins.  (if you don't have non-stick muffin tins, you may want to coat them with some non-stick spray). 

Put tins in hot oven until butter melts to just about smoking point.  Remove from oven and immediately fill 1/3 way full with batter (after giving it a quick whisk).  Place back into oven quickly (you don't want the tins to cool).  Bake about 10-11 minutes until the popovers have puffed all the way up and turn golden brown.  Don't open the oven door to check, it will interrupt the rising and they won't turn out as good. 

Enjoy warm with jam or just by themselves. Because they look kind of like puff pastry, I am tempted to try some savory toppings, with the popovers tipped on their sides, and beef stew or pot roast spilling out the middle.  That's for another post.  Enjoy!

Chawanmushi - a silky surprise and yes, my Dashi recipe

Okay I know, don't be shocked.  No writey for like, 3 months.  Let me explain.  Things have been a little hectic in food land.  Ever since I stopped working for the "tyrant" in June, I've been patching my income together like a madwoman.  Some weeks are good, and some just plain POOR!  ha!  Plus I have some stuff up my sleeve.  Let's just say it involves my love of Japanese food, knives, and... my love of feeding people good stuff.  Yes, I'm trying to start my own place.

So, in lieu of trashing and praising other people's food, let me share some of my own.

My facebook food and drink posts garner a lot of oohs and aaahs (photographing food is just plain FUN).  A few days ago I posted a photograph of a beautiful Chawanmushi I made on the fly.  Lately I have all kinds of stuff in my arsenal (i.e. my refrigerator) and am finding endless combinations I can make with just a few basic ingredients.  This is one of them:

I'm not officially a Japanese food aficianado, in fact, I'm not even sure I spelled that correctly! : )  However, I do know the basics and have a huge love affair with the stuff (fortunately or unfortunately at the moment to the exclusion of all else).  That said, let's talk custard.

The deal behind Chawanmushi is that it's Dashi (fish stock) and egg based.  Simply, a 2 cup Dashi to 3 eggs ratio.  Once you combine the two and strain them (for clarity and consistency) into custard cups, tea cups or any stoneware cup you have the base.  But let's back up cuz' that's the last step. 

For the custard pictured here, into the bottom of the cup I placed a Shitake Mushroom cap, cut in half (raw), a few sprigs of green onion and about 2 Tablespoons of cooked Dungeness Crab meat.  I then poured the egg mixture over the top (reserving about 1/2" room at the top) placed the lid on and steamed it in a bamboo steamer for about 20 minutes.  I only have two official Chawanmushi cups (replete with lids) so I used a few tea cups and covered them tightly with saran wrap (which works just as well).  Strangely some of you may know, the saran wrap does not melt under these conditions. 

For this recipe I used crab stock that I made from spent crab shells, simmered for a few hours, and seasoned with soy sauce and mirin.   However, I recommend using straight seasoned dashi, as it is easier and if you are a freak like me, always have a quart or so hanging around in the refrigerator.  By the way, don't store your dashi for longer than 5-7 days.  (It is perishable after all).

Okay, you are begging, just begging to know WTF dashi is and why I keep referring to it.  Well, you see, dashi is the staple, absolute cornerstone of Japanese cooking.  It is used as the base for all soups, many dressings, sauces and even  Ponzu sauce is made with Dashi.  Little known but true, most Japanese food is not vegetarian because of this   (which is no problem for me...).

I went to Japan two years ago  (weep weep, it has been so long) and learned how to make dashi from two different Japanese chefs.  I watched my friends at O Chame; in Berkeley make dashi for years and years (because I worked there for years and years), and I've read numerous online examples of how to make dashi.  So, that being said, my way is my way and I'm not imposing my white girl version on anyone here.  I'm simply telling you how to make it so you can start your Japanese arsenal and also get some good flavoring, Umami if you will.  If you aren't into the labor involved (its not that bad but involves somewhat specific ingredients), go to the Asian market and get Dashi granules, a powdered substance one adds to water to produce the same rich broth (sort of like bouillion cubes, actually).  Watch out for the MSG however, because many commercial products do contain it (unless you don't give a shit about that - and I'm not saying that you should...).  Anyhoo, oh, I see, you forgot how long winded my stories are... 

Okay, here goes nothing:

Seasoned Dashi (appropriate for salad dressings, this recipe, soba and udon noodle soup etc)

4 cups filtered water  (1 qt)
1 - 6" piece of Kombu seaweed (may be called Dashi Kombu)
1 large handful of dried bonito flakes
tsp salt
 Mirin (sweet cooking sake)
soy sauce

Place 4 cups water into saucepan and add Kombu.  Soak for about an hour (or longer)  1/2 hour will do, this is not a perfect science, it is cooking for chrissakes!  The Kombu is the source of the umami and other amazing properties that add a little somethin' somethin' you can't get elsewhere.  So, in short, it is okay to soak it for 75 minutes if you forget.  By the way, a little side note, Kombu has naturally based MSG in it, not the evil kind, but MSG is what everyone is freaking on when they speak of umami, the 5th taste, but I won't go into that right now.    Anyway, after the aforementioned soaking has taken place, turn the burner on and the timer on at the same time - 15 minutes.  In about 4 or so the water will come to a slight boil, turn it down to med-low and let it simmer until the timer has gone off.  Turn the burner off.  Add the handful of bonito flakes (they sink into the broth but no need to stir them in) - turn on the burner for a few seconds to bring it to a slight simmer (just look for those little bubbles).  Turn the burner off.  Turn the timer on for 12 or so minutes.  Let the bonito flakes "steep" in the water.  After the 12 minutes is done, strain the whole concoction through a wire mesh strainer (into another pot or heat proof bowl, of course).  This is your basic dashi.  Okay all you Japanese people out there, don't freak out on my technique.  It works for me! 
Anyhoo, this basic dashi can be used now to make Miso soup.  Yup, just whisk the miso in, add a little green onion, wakame and tofu, and you're done.  But oops! we aren't making miso soup right now, we are making something else...

Okay, so next add the soy sauce, mirin and salt.  Taste the broth along the way.  Tt should be a little sweet, a little salty (but not too much).  If it is a little sweet but seems to be lacking, add some more salt, it is amazing how much just a pinch more will do.  Maybe another dash of soy (watch out for this).

Okay, now you have your seasoned dashi which you will have to let cool before we proceed to the next step. 

Chawanmushi can have anything in it.  Sometimes it has spinach leaves, or bok choy or some other chopped up green leaf.  It often (almost always) has japanese fish cake.  Mushrooms are nice, so are green onions, pieces of chicken or shrimp.  if you cut them into 1" pieces, you don't even have to cook them first (the proteins, that is).  But, I like to add cooked proteins because it retains the clarity of the custard without all the excess fats etc releasing from the proteins into the custard which would otherwise occur.

So, add just a few pieces of these treats to the bottom of a custard cup, combine the said 2 cups of cooled broth with 3 eggs and whisk together.  Strain these through a wire mesh strainer (a wire mesh tea strainer works good in a pinch) and top the ingredients with it. Cover with lid and steam for 20 minutes (yes, get that steamer going a few minutes ahead of time so it is ready when you put them in).  Turn off the steam and remove the lid from the steamer.  To check for doneness the custard should be firm and clear dashi should rise up if poked with a spoon or chopstick).  Eat while hot!

O Chame' Berkeley - still simply sublime

In a world where it seems every last restaurateur is opening a new Salumeria, Pizzeria or some permutation of the Italian way, it is refreshing to experience original, unique, and downright delectable flavor combinations that one can't find on every other corner of the SF Bay Area.   Not to lead you down the wrong gastronomical path here, O Chame' in Berkeley couldn't be further from Mediterranean in style. Instead,  has it's own unique brand of Japanese going on, one that can ONLY be found at 4th and Hearst Streets, in the midst of upscale shopping, where unique boutiques shoulder up against some tried and true Bay Area natives:  Rabat, Molly B's, Erica Tanov; and incidentally, where the latest gigantic MAC store is now putting down its roots.

David Vardy, O Chame's Owner and Chef,  planted his roots there back in 1990, when "4th Street" was developer Denny Abrams' dream, and the shopping district was only a block long, starting with the lighting store on one end, and Kona Kai farms at the other (some of you may remember those days long past).  In fact, somehow, some way, back in 1992, while studying at U.C. Berkeley, I wandered by and landed a job as "Bento Girl" on Saturdays in an old Kiosk that used to grace their patio (incidentally, that same kiosk now lives behind Sea Salt over on San Pablo and Dwight and I think is now used as an employee changing room).  After just a few months weighing fine tea, selling Nambu (a light as air cookie/cracker concoction) and lunchtime bentos, I weasled my way inside, and stayed there for almost 10 years, working every front of the house job with gusto.  Now it's almost 20 years later and O Chame' is still hands down one of my very favorite restaurants, with a consistency that can be practically measured.  And you didn't hear it from me first, by the way, as Michael Bauer (a critic most love to hate) is also a huge fan, keeping David in the Top 100 despite the explosion of new happening restaurants springing up practically every week in Berkeley, Oakland and SF. 

What is it about O Chame and can you get to the food already???  Okay, okay, just trying to set the stage here.  If the walls adorned with artist Mayumi Oda's scraffito (drawings in wet plaster), could talk, they would tell you tales of lifelong friendships made, marriages had, and babies galore oozing out its pores.  In fact, on my last visit I went with my best friend E, and her son M, a bonified O Chame' baby.   E & J met while working the floor there, soon became a couple, and although J defected to the IT industry and later became a nurse, E stayed on for an additional 8 years.  Many of my other co-workers also have held long tenures, a few of them in the teens now.  And guess what, we are all still regulars, O Chame' being a must-have-once-a-month  sort of place.  You get the picture.  A dedicated group.  Perhaps David's food is addicting.  I once had Bonnie Raitt tell me that the grilled shitake mushrooms were so ethereal she felt as if she "had just smoked opium" (yes, that is exactly what she said). 

Oh yeah, the food.  Well, for a "Japanese" restaurant, you may be in for a bit of a shock, as one won't find sushi, teriyaki or shumai on the menu.  Tempura just barely made it on after years of resistance.  Crispy, light, and served with daikon laced dipping sauce, sweet potatoes sit alongside juliennes of asparagus and earthy burdock root.   A beautiful snow crab and kabocha pumpkin croquette is also one of the more traditional items you may find - served with a bonito flake infused ponzu sauce, the portion of two left me wanting for more, but that is the problem with O Chame', it is hard not to gobble up the entire menu, especially since as I scan the list, I know intimately the flavors of each dish before they hit my tongue, like an old lover whose scent still lingers in my limbic memory...

Hamachi Sashimi with Braised Leeks and Horseradish Sauce - a standard favorite of mine,  was perfectly fresh and slightly seared, the horseradish sauce an unusual twist when you would probably expect wasabi (which they have in the back if you must).  I am embarrassed that we couldn't pull the camera out fast enough to snap a photo before half of it was gobbled up.

The seasonal Corn and Green Onion Pancake, seemingly light, yet suspiciously crispy on the outside, the perfect vehicle for dipping in the drizzle-on-everything vinegar-ey mayonnaise sauce, and is something I can't visit without ordering, as is the Blanched Spinach with Sesame Dressing - a very traditional gomae.  This dish has no added oil save for the rich, ground sesame seeds that provide a textural and nutty component.  Rounded out with soy sauce, vinegar (and a few secret ingredients), it is perfectly balanced.

 Vinegared Cucumbers with Shiso Leaf and Radishes has that refreshing crunch complimented with the herbaceous shiso. 

Grilled River Eel with Belgian Endive is one that we ended up order two of, as E's son, only 3 years old, eats like an adult and I just couldn't get enough of the smokey, sweet and salty eel atop lightly dressed, slightly bittersweet endive leaves. 

Since the Hamachi was so great, I opted for the Sashimi salad, where it is sliced thinly, marinated for a quick second in seasoning, and served simply with lightly dressed greens.

Although we couldn't manage to make it past the appetizers,  O Chame' also has a broad selection of deliciously light, yet satisfying dashi based soups that come with a choice of Soba or Udon noodles boasting toppings you won't find at most Japanese places:  Grilled Sardines, Pork Tenderloin, Smoked Trout, Simmered Beef Shoulder...  Yes, they do have Shrimp Tempura Udon for the traditionalists out there...  These soups are a favorite among the die-hards, like an elixir to warm one's bones on a cold winter day.  David also offers 3 -4 entrees per day, varying from Salmon, Yellowtail, California Bass, Grilled Flank Steak or Braised Beef Shoulder all atop magical vegetables that swim delightfully in variously flavored dashi based sauces.  His wine, sake and tea list is simple yet well selected, often with a few french varietals by the glass to compliment the delicate flavors of his food.

As we sat with our sakes, trying our best not to fight over the last precious morsels, we were delighted to see regular faces filter in through the door, including a couple of O Chame' alumni who, after many hugs and kisses, shuffled up to eat at the bar.  A couple were seated near us, ordered their usual pancakes, eel and sobas, and smiled wide when they looked over and saw E and myself, familiar faces like fixtures still in place after all those years.  The sweet lady "texted" her niece and said it was "like an O Chame' reunion." These folks clearly feel the same about the place as we do, as eating at O Chame' and the entirety of its smells, seats, lights, feelings and delectable, consistent flavors has a certain magic to it, like coming home.

O Chame'
1830 4th Street
Berkeley
510-841-8783

A Sucker for the Turntable - Humble Pie, Penngrove

Hey there.  Yup, things have been dark on the writing side lately.  Midlife crisis aside, I have been experiencing some pretty cool places up here in Sonoma County.   One of my current favorites is a tiny little place in Penngrove called "Humble Pie".

My friend K lives right down the street from this place and suggested we spend a Sunday morning checking out their brunch selections.  To the unfamiliar, Penngrove is a tiny 1 block town, (see photo above, I lifted it from Wikipedia, as my camera wasn't functioning properly...).  What you see there, well that is it.  Looks like an old western town, which is the case with all of these towns in Southwestern Sonoma County, a little clue as to why I'm so smitten...

Situated adjacent to the Black Cat bar (in fact, they share a pass through door into the dining room), Humble Pie is the brainchild of two couples (as far as I can tell):  Brooke and Dan McCann, Joshua Norwitt and Miriam Donaldson.  Their motto is to use food from their own farm, situated in Petaluma off Roblar Road, and round it with local produce, chicken and meat, all natural and organic from our lovely Sonoma County lands. 

Enough about the philosophy, what about the food???  And what about the place?  Humble Pie is easily the smallest restaurant I've ever eaten at.  All 6 tables are crowded into a room not much larger than my "small" living room, which isn't a problem if there are tables available, which thank God there were on that morning, as the party I went to the night before was still ringing in my ears, the 90 degree heat outside a little blinding for my inflamed brain cells.  They only serve brunch on Sunday from 10am - 3pm, so keep that in mind when venturing up from the City. 

A small but well represented menu includes Eggs Benedict, Housemade Milk and Honey Bread (Toast if you must and French Toast if you really must), an open faced "Steak Sandie", fresh grapefruit juice Mimosa's, oh and last but not least, a turntable on the way into the kitchen cranking out tunes from vinyl, yes, real vinyl - vinyl that must be put on, and turned over and then replaced every 25 minutes or so (yes, you remember...).  Okay, I hadn't yet eaten one morsel of their tasty food and was already a huge fan.  Oh, and by the way, with the bar right through the pass through door, a Bloody Mary and various other cocktails can also be had.

K had the Steak Sandie - a huge pile of perfectly medium rare Flank Steak with balsamic glazed onions and horseradish creme fraiche atop homemade bread with a huge pile of greens on the side.  She barely made a dent in it (or so it seemed from my vantage point across the large table) when she proclaimed "finito" and had the rest boxed for the hubby.  C (K's son) had toast and fruit, which was arranged like a cutey-patooty happy face, cantaloupe wedge as the smile.  I had the Eggs Benedict (sauce on side please) which came with refried smashed potatoes which if you haven't figured out by now, is pretty much my favorite food.  Potatoes, yes, mashed, even better, mashed and crispy on the outside, well, you get the picture.  Good coffee and "Magic Bus" playing in the background, we couldn't find a reason not to try this place out for dinner, so promptly made reservations for the following Wednesday night.

Our friend E joined us for dinner and C came along too (he's like a little adult, very self entertaining). After some juicy and amply sized firecracker shrimp atop a nice creamy mound of mashed Yukon Golds, shared with a perfectly chilled bottle of J Cuvee (purchased there), we popped my Sequoia Grove Syrah and eagerly awaited the Whole Stuffed Trout (described with quotes from Hemmingway) and the "Pork Chop of Awe and Wonder" - sugar and spice brined pork goodness, which came, not surprisingly, atop a mound of more mashed Yukon Golds.  The pork was perfectly cooked, not too "hammy" as sometimes happens when the brine is too strong or it sits too long, and the trout, stuffed with greens and bacon, was delish!  Who knows what C was eating, as he was busy with his puzzle and Christmas music piped into his headphones (yes, I know, pretty cute).  Two entrees amidst 3 girls and we were STUFFED.  The only complaint most people may have about this place, is that almost everything comes with mashed Yukon Gold potatoes.  For me, however, David Bowie on vinyl in the background (chchchch-changes), our charming waiter/owner, good wine, good friends and mashed potatoes, well, one couldn't ask for anything more. 

www.humblepiepenngrove.com

10045 Main Street
Penngrove, CA 94951
(707) 664-8779